My Initial Impressions

I’m really excited to be living and working in Uganda for the next three months!  Although I’ve only been here for one week, I’ve enjoyed every minute of it.  I’m slowly adjusting to the culture, but I must admit, it has not been easy.  The famous Swahili saying hakuna matatata (no worries) really coincides with Ugandan culture. The pace is slower; people tend to be very easy-going, and are almost never in a hurry to go anywhere.  Ugandans are also very relaxed, and are often not bothered by petty nuisances. 

Ugandan is ethnically, racially and linguistically diverse. Kampala is the most diverse city in Uganda as evidenced by the number of Americans, Asians Europeans, Indians, Ethiopians, Congolese, and Somalis.  I assumed that because I am a black woman that I would have blended with the majority population, however, that has not been the case.  Ugandans are very good at identifying foreigners.  Some people have identified that I am from the United States even without saying a word.  Ugandans refer to foreigners as muzungo (person of foreign descent, but mostly used with Caucasions).  It feels so strange being called muzungo, but I’m slowly getting used to it.  Ugandans tend to take advantage of foreigners by charging double, and sometimes triple the cost for goods and services.  Some taxi drivers have overcharged me, but I’ve learned very quickly to haggle with them and pay the local rate. 

I live in Ntinda, a very beautiful village right outside of Kampala.  I share a house with three wonderful American volunteers.  My housemates have been living here for more than three months so they’ve already adjusted to the Ugandan culture.  They’ve helped me to locate important places in the city i.e. the grocery stores, the mall, and taxi stations.  They even made me breakfast on my first morning in Uganda.  Sometimes we make dinner together, and prepare brunch on weekends. 

My initial experiences have been slightly different from some of my housemates.  I did not get jet lagged nor had trouble adjusting to the time difference (exactly eight hours ahead).  Because I lived in Jamaica for sixteen years, I expected the lifestyle and culture to be different.  But just about everything is different including public transportation, languages, and food.  People generally take the mutatus (minibuses) or boda boda (motorcycles) to travel around Kampala.  Kampala is a very crowded city.  It almost feels like organized chaos. On a typical day, there are several cars, bicycle, mutatus, and boda boda traveling in various directions.  I don’t mind taking the mutatus because they are much safer than the boda boda.  You have to be extremely careful when walking as a boda boda might hit you.  Sometimes I feel as if I’m going to have a heart attack when I take the mutatus, or walk around the city because people drive as if they’re crazy, yikes!

Although English is the official language, most people speak Lugandan.  Lugandan is one of the Bantu languages used in East Africa.  I’ve only learned a few words: cale (ok), sebbo, (sir), and nyabo, (madam).  I’m really hoping to learn more Lugandan.  The Ugandan cuisine is very different.  I’m still trying to get accustomed to the food.  Ugandans tend to eat lots of starches including plantains, bananas, Irish potatoes, cassavas, and yam.  Although most people eat traditional Ugandan food, there is a variety of ethnic food available.  Indian restaurants are very popular in Kampala.  I’ve also seen a few Ethiopian, Turkish, Mediterranean, Italian and French restaurants as well.  I've seen a number of coffee shops in Kampala, and believe it or not, I’ve already found my Starbucks replacement.  My favorite coffee shop is Endiro café; they serve the best cappuccinos, masala chai tea and Kenyan teas, yum!

Although I knew beforehand that Uganda was a developing country, I was not prepared to see such high levels of underdevelopment.  Many streets in Kampala are filled with potholes.  In other areas, there are no sidewalks; streetlights, traffic signals; or crosswalks.  According to some Ugandans, the country remains underdeveloped because the government is extremely corrupt.  Although Ugandans pay taxes, the politicians use that money to support their extravagant lifestyles, instead of repairing the roads.  I’m really frustrated about this because people should not be forced to live under such conditions.  While there are many other factors that may have contributed these conditions, i.e. the past genocide, the government must focus on improving the country’s infrastructure. 

Load shedding is also another major issue.  Load shedding is the rationing of electricity.  This means that the government shuts off power in some parts of the country in order supply power to other areas.  The power goes out every single day!!!  In some areas, the power goes out for 48 hours, and sometimes longer.  Not only is that annoying, but is extremely frustrating! Fortunately, I have a generator in my house and also in my office so it does not affect me as much.  But for Ugandans, particularly business owners, this is major problem.  For example, a copy and print shop will face serious problems maintaining the business because he/she would not be able provide daily copying, printing and/or faxing services for major companies. 

I’ve become even more overwhelmed by the high level of poverty and homelessness.  The difference between rich and poor is striking.  Whenever I travel in the city, I’ve noticed a number of upscale homes and apartments, country clubs, restaurants, golf courses, and within few minutes, there are slums and shanty towns. The unemployment rate is extremely high in this country.  Although this is a major issue in the United States, the effects of unemployment appear to be much worst in Uganda.  There are no welfare programs for needy people, and as a result, people have succumbed to begging and/or stealing.

The lack of education is also striking.  Children do not attend school because their parents cannot afford the school fees, uniforms, and school supplies.  I find this rather frustrating because education is mandatory in Uganda, yet only the affluent can afford to pay for their children’s education.  Even if poorer citizens send their children to school, there are hardly enough spaces, desk, chairs and supplies available in public schools.  The student to teacher ratio is extremely high; the rate is approximately 100:1.  Thus, many children are forced to work on farms, or to find jobs as house helps in order to assist their families.  

Yet, in spite of these problems, I’m very happy to be here.  If you are passionate about human rights advocacy (as I am) you will enjoy being here.  There are so many ways is which you can use your passion to help others.  I am very happy to be working as an advocate for women's rights with the Federation of Women Lawyers (FIDA).  FIDA is a well recognized organization in Uganda as well as East Africa.   

I hope that you enjoy reading my blog.  I look forward to sharing my Ugandan experience with you.   

Stay tuned for my next blog post regarding my work with FIDA.